Three Hikes

Netherlands, Germany, Denmark were all a smooth continuum of loveliness. Certainly I noticed when crossing borders, primarily from the change in language. Ok, how is it that these countries, all so close together, have entirely different languages? I am still amazed by the phenomenon of language at all. That we can make a series of noises and glean information from them astounds me. Even children can do it! That these noises have been transformed into little black lines now appearing on my screen? But I digress.

Over the water to Norway, driving off the ferry (at 11:00pm, still fully light), my first thought was “Oh! This is different!” Abruptly mountainous, the fjords gleaming in the sun, rocks soaring to grand heights, houses with sod roofs.

I started out in the Setesdal as a very moderate area. Figured it was a good place to find my feet and to calibrate my times against the Norwegian standards. On my first hike, I found the perfect remote cabin, accessible only on foot.

It had its own pond with a red row boat, and a spring. The next cabin was less appealing. Also, the huge Moose print. Happily, I didn't see her! Yet another danger! It reminded me of the Boundary Waters, lake after lake with low lying land

Sadly, Alltrails failed me on this one. Three miles in, trail disappeared entirely. I tried bushwhacking around the lake for a couple of miles, hoping it would reappear, but was stymied by a spring swollen creek I didn't want to cross without even a trail on the other side.

Hike two, still in Stetesdal was perfect! A great climb high above tree line, using the Norwegian hiking app, trail well marked, not a soul anywhere. All the things I love. Beat official time by an hour, so feel pretty confident about their markings. For those who care, 20km, 1000m elevation, 4.5 hours.

Hike three was all about the waterfalls. I moved to the Hardangervidda National Park which is bigger and grander. Super muddy trail, got a little unclear at the top, but was just following a river, so it didn't matter. But man! These waterfalls are some serious.

Remember Iceland's waterfalls? They were diminutive in comparison.

Iceland is a young woman with beautiful skin and eerie eyes, who bathes in milk from the pure Icelandic cows, eats only fresh fish and languidly drapes her body into hot springs or across lush green meadows filled with fluffy white lambs. She is dangerous, often deadly, but looks as mild as a Spring morning.

Norway is her much older big brother who flexes in the mirror in the bathroom and makes everything a competition. He is loud and large and very moody. Everything is super dramatic and oversized. The dangers are all on display.

I haven't spoken to a single Norwegian person. I know nothing about Norway the country. No offense intended. I am just talking about the landscape.