Ode to Norway

I have fallen in love with the big older brother. Somehow, I never knew about the spectacular beauty of Norway. North of Oslo and Bergen, there is nothing but stunning cliffs plunging into crystal clear fjords, imposing mountains surrounded by verdant pastures, open hills nestled against the shore, high mountain plateaus that still have snow, small fruit orchards clinging to steep hills. It is all so amazingly beautiful.

And then there’s Norway’s “right to roam,” which refers to a legally protected traditional right that allows everyone to freely hike, ski, and camp across uncultivated land, regardless of ownership. This embodies a philosophy that is deeply rooted in the country's identity. This freedom is paired with a strict responsibility to show respect, minimize environmental impact, look out for livestock, and leave no trace. Which means, as a hiker, that the whole expanse is open for use. A remarkable thing. It also means that I haven't seen a single piece of trash on trail – not a tissue, or gum wrapper – or a gate left open.

There is also a general attitude that you are sensible enough to figure things out without having your hand held. The ferry system, for example, is an elegantly efficient process as simple as driving down the highway. Ferries are frequent, they come and go soundlessly with no fanfare. You simply drive up to the line, wait for the next boat (I have never waited more than 10 minutes), drive on, get across the water, drive off, and you are on your way. Your license plate is read electronically, so there is no messing with tickets. You can get out of your car to get a coffee or a stale donut, but no one tells you when to go back to your car, you just pay attention and get down there as land approaches. Again, no signs, no instructions, it just makes sense. This is a general attitude. No one is monitoring your behavior. There aren’t fences or signs to keep you safe from falling off cliffs, swimming in cold deep water, or wandering around above treeline without preparation.

I am a huge fan. It’s a magnificent place with room for all. Plus, NO insects. Not one single mosquito despite lots of standing water. And . . . although the weather forecast predictably looks bleak, while it has been mostly cloudy, there have only been a few periods of full on rain. Perfect hiking weather, great for sleeping.

So, a little catch up. Originally, I thought I had over 6 weeks in the van to fully explore the country. I was planning to go all the way up above the arctic circle. But it turns out, I was only allowed to take the van for one month at a time, so I have to have it back in Amsterdam on the 3rd. Norway is loooonnnggg, and the roads are tiny and slow. If I had gone all the way North, I was only going to have four days up there, and it was going to be a solid four day drive just to get back. So I pivoted. I decided to head south slowly from Trondheim, make stops in Bergen and Copenhagen, and smaller towns in between to get a little break from hiking.

Leaving Norway and heading into Sweden, I am so sad. I will absolutely be back, I have a trip all planned to do the Northern third of the country.