City Life

Bergen, as Norway's "second city," also known as "the city of seven mountains," is extremely picturesque. It is right on a harbor, surrounded by the aforementioned mountains, and boasts cobblestone streets and tightly packed, colorful houses.

It is also a prime destination for cruise ships

which have completely overrun the town. You can hear the frequent announcements to passengers about boarding and docking all the way up to the top row of houses. Shops and food cater primarily to the cruise guests, and the entire waterfront is a carnival of tourism.

Happily, on my last afternoon, right out the door of my Airbnb, I discovered a trail heading "up" – generally my preferred direction. For those of you familiar with Devil's Lake, picture the East Bluff exactly, but multiply times 4. This path features 2000 feet of elevation via smooth stone steps rising straight up out of the city. I went out around 4:30 and as I climbed, I was surrounded by Bergenians, presumably having just gotten off work. Young and old, large and small, with dogs and without, couples, solo folk, friend groups, serious trainers, casual explorers, reluctant girlfriends, everyone was out and up! Some were running multiple loops, some toiling, all sweating and panting, and most talking. I had finally found the spirit of Bergen. At the top was an argument, a love scene, a celebration, and . . . "Now loading at Dock Four . . ."

The small town of Halden, Sweden boasts an impressive, ancient fortress that seems to have changed hands between the Danes and the Swedes several times.

And I found a great coastal walk around the small island of Ramsvikslandet.

And then down to Copenhagen! Despite walking miles and miles, I could not get a feel for Copenhagen. It is big and spread out, and the streets are crazy wide. American wide. It is much more a car city than a bicycle city. It actually feels very American to me. There are these monster open backed cargo trucks carrying dozens of drinking college students and blasting music driving all over town. I guess it's a graduation ritual, but it reminds me of those drinking multi person bikes that go up and down State St., only so much bigger. Most commerce is conducted in English, which is weird. I don't like it much, but I am pretty sure that's more about me than it.

I have to say, solo city travel is a whole different kind of hard than the hiking kind. I found my rhythm in my van, was finding decision making much easier and more fluid, was in the swing. I had charred all the chaff, chads, and chatter out of my mind and was on a slow steady burn. Pretty quiet in the upper story. But in the city! oof a whole new skill set required.